/* Field Guide. Spec: DESIGN.md */
:root{
  --paper:#F7F5EF;--paper-2:#EFECE3;--ink:#22252A;--ink-2:#4A4E55;--slate:#5B6B7A;
  --juniper:#3F5E4A;--juniper-dk:#2F4838;--rule:#D8D4C8;
  --ink-rgb:34,37,42;--juniper-rgb:63,94,74;
  --font-serif:'Source Serif 4',Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;
  --font-sans:'IBM Plex Sans',system-ui,-apple-system,'Segoe UI',sans-serif;
  --measure:680px;--wrap:1180px;--gutter:clamp(1rem,4vw,2rem);--sec:clamp(3rem,7vw,5.5rem);
  --bar:58px;
}
*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:400 1.125rem/1.72 var(--font-serif);padding-bottom:calc(var(--bar) + env(safe-area-inset-bottom));overflow-x:hidden}
@media (min-width:1000px){body{padding-bottom:0}}
img,svg{display:block;max-width:100%}
img{height:auto}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--font-serif);font-weight:600;color:var(--ink);margin:0 0 .5em}
h1{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,6vw,4.4rem);line-height:1.05;letter-spacing:-.01em}
h2{font-size:clamp(1.55rem,3vw,2.1rem);line-height:1.2}
h3{font-size:1.25rem;line-height:1.3}
p{margin:0 0 1.05em}
ul,ol{margin:0 0 1.1em;padding-left:1.25em}
li{margin:.35em 0}
a{color:var(--juniper);text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:3px;transition:text-underline-offset .2s,color .2s}
a:hover{color:var(--juniper-dk);text-underline-offset:5px}
:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--ink);outline-offset:3px}
.wrap{max-width:var(--wrap);margin:0 auto;padding:0 var(--gutter)}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px;top:0;z-index:200;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:.8rem 1rem}
.skip:focus{left:1rem;top:1rem}
.ph{font-family:ui-monospace,SFMono-Regular,Menlo,monospace;font-size:.82em;background:var(--paper-2);border:1px solid var(--rule);color:var(--ink);padding:0 .3em;white-space:nowrap}
.trip .ph,td .ph,.meta .ph,.dl .ph{white-space:normal;word-break:break-word}
.bar .ph{background:transparent;border:0;color:inherit;padding:0}
.label{font:500 .78rem/1.3 var(--font-sans);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate)}
.sc{font-variant:small-caps;letter-spacing:.06em}

/* Buttons */
.btn-outline{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:.5rem;min-height:46px;padding:.65rem 1.1rem;border:1.5px solid var(--juniper);border-radius:0;background:transparent;color:var(--juniper);font:500 .95rem/1.1 var(--font-sans);letter-spacing:.02em;text-decoration:none;cursor:pointer;transition:background-color .15s,color .15s}
.btn-outline:hover{background:var(--juniper);color:var(--paper)}
.btn-outline:active{background:var(--juniper-dk);color:var(--paper)}
.btn-outline:disabled{opacity:.5;cursor:not-allowed}
.btn-outline svg{width:16px;height:16px}
.textlink{font:500 1rem/1.3 var(--font-sans);color:inherit;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}

/* Top line */
.top{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:60;background:var(--paper);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.top-row{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;min-height:58px}
.wm{font:600 1.2rem/1 var(--font-serif);font-variant:small-caps;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;min-width:0}
.wm .ph{font-variant:normal;letter-spacing:0;white-space:normal;word-break:break-all}
.top nav ul{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.2rem;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.top nav li{margin:0}
.top nav a,.top nav button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;min-height:44px;padding:.4rem .7rem;font:500 .92rem/1 var(--font-sans);color:var(--ink);background:none;border:0;cursor:pointer;text-decoration:none}
.top nav a:hover,.top nav button:hover{color:var(--juniper);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}
.top nav a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--juniper)}
.top nav svg{width:18px;height:18px}
.hide-sm{display:none!important}
@media (min-width:760px){.hide-sm{display:inline-flex!important}}

/* Guides overlay */
.overlay{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:100;background:var(--paper);overflow-y:auto;opacity:0;visibility:hidden;transition:opacity .2s,visibility .2s}
.overlay.open{opacity:1;visibility:visible}
.overlay .o-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;min-height:58px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.overlay .close{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;min-height:44px;padding:.4rem .7rem;background:none;border:0;font:500 .92rem/1 var(--font-sans);color:var(--ink);cursor:pointer}
.overlay .close svg{width:18px;height:18px}
.o-list{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:1.5rem 0 3rem;display:grid;gap:0}
.o-list li{margin:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.o-list a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:1.1rem;align-items:center;padding:1.1rem 0;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink)}
.o-list img{width:96px;height:96px;object-fit:cover;background:var(--paper-2)}
@media (min-width:700px){.o-list img{width:140px;height:110px}}
.o-list .n{font:500 .78rem/1 var(--font-sans);letter-spacing:.12em;color:var(--slate)}
.o-list .t{display:block;font:600 clamp(1.35rem,3.5vw,2rem)/1.15 var(--font-serif);margin:.3rem 0}
.o-list .d{display:block;font-size:1rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.o-list a:hover .t{color:var(--juniper);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}

/* Hero */
.hero{position:relative;min-height:min(78vh,720px);display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:var(--paper);background:var(--ink);overflow:hidden;isolation:isolate}
.hero>img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;z-index:-2;animation:fade 1s ease both}
.hero::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),0) 35%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.78) 100%)}
@keyframes fade{from{opacity:0}}
.hero .wrap{width:100%;padding-top:5rem;padding-bottom:clamp(1.8rem,5vw,3rem)}
.hero h1{color:var(--paper);max-width:16ch}
.hero .dek{font-size:clamp(1.05rem,2vw,1.25rem);max-width:56ch;color:rgba(247,245,239,.9);margin-bottom:1rem}
.hero .textlink{color:var(--paper)}
.hero .cap{margin-top:1.4rem;padding-top:.7rem;border-top:1px solid rgba(247,245,239,.35);font:400 .8rem/1.4 var(--font-sans);color:rgba(247,245,239,.8)}
.hero .cap a{color:inherit}
.crumbs{font:400 .84rem/1.4 var(--font-sans);color:rgba(247,245,239,.85);margin-bottom:.8rem}
.crumbs a{color:inherit}
.plain-head{padding:clamp(2.2rem,6vw,4rem) 0 clamp(1.4rem,4vw,2.2rem);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.plain-head .crumbs{color:var(--slate)}
.plain-head h1{font-size:clamp(2.1rem,5vw,3.4rem);max-width:20ch}
.plain-head .dek{font-size:1.15rem;color:var(--ink-2);max-width:60ch}

/* Article layout */
.page{display:grid;gap:2.5rem;padding:clamp(2rem,5vw,3.5rem) 0 var(--sec)}
@media (min-width:1000px){.page{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,var(--measure)) 300px;justify-content:space-between}}
.page>*{min-width:0}
.article{max-width:var(--measure)}
.article h2{margin-top:2.2rem;padding-top:1.6rem;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);scroll-margin-top:80px}
.article h2:first-of-type{border-top:0;padding-top:0;margin-top:1.6rem}
.article h3{margin-top:1.6rem}
.lede{font-size:1.25rem;line-height:1.6;color:var(--ink-2)}
.toc{background:var(--paper-2);padding:1.1rem 1.3rem;margin:1.6rem 0 1.4rem;border-left:3px solid var(--juniper)}
.toc .label{display:block;margin-bottom:.5rem}
.toc ol{margin:0;padding-left:1.3em;font:400 .98rem/1.5 var(--font-sans)}
.toc li{margin:.25em 0}
.pull{margin:2rem 0;padding:.2rem 0 .2rem 1.3rem;border-left:3px solid var(--juniper);font:italic 400 clamp(1.4rem,3vw,1.9rem)/1.35 var(--font-serif);color:var(--ink)}
figure.fig{margin:2rem 0}
figure.fig img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;background:var(--paper-2)}
figure.fig figcaption{margin-top:.55rem;padding-top:.5rem;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);font:400 .82rem/1.45 var(--font-sans);color:var(--slate)}
figure.fig figcaption a{color:inherit}
.dl{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:.4rem 1.2rem;margin:1.4rem 0;padding:1rem 0;border-block:1px solid var(--rule);font:400 .98rem/1.5 var(--font-sans)}
.dl dt{color:var(--slate);font-weight:500}
.dl dd{margin:0}
.note{margin:1.6rem 0;padding:1rem 1.2rem;background:var(--paper-2);font:400 .98rem/1.55 var(--font-sans);color:var(--ink-2)}
.note strong{color:var(--ink);font-weight:500;display:block;margin-bottom:.2rem}
.tbl{overflow-x:auto;margin:1.4rem 0;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;min-width:440px;font:400 .97rem/1.5 var(--font-sans)}
th,td{text-align:left;padding:.7rem .6rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);vertical-align:top}
th{font-weight:500;color:var(--slate)}
tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}
.plan{margin-top:2.6rem;padding-top:1.6rem;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
.related{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:1rem 0 0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.related li{margin:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.related a{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;padding:.85rem 0;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}
.related a span{font:400 .9rem/1.4 var(--font-sans);color:var(--slate);text-align:right}
.related a:hover{color:var(--juniper)}

/* Trip card */
.trip{border:1.5px solid var(--juniper);background:var(--paper);padding:1.3rem 1.3rem 1.4rem}
.trip .label{color:var(--juniper);display:block;margin-bottom:.4rem}
.trip h2,.trip h3{font-size:1.45rem;margin:0 0 .4rem;border:0;padding:0}
.trip .tel{display:block;font:600 1.15rem/1.3 var(--font-sans);margin:.3rem 0 1rem;color:var(--ink)}
.rail{display:none}
@media (min-width:1000px){.rail{display:block}.rail .trip{position:sticky;top:82px}}
.inline-trip{margin:2rem 0}
@media (min-width:1000px){.inline-trip{display:none}}
.tf{display:grid;gap:.7rem;position:relative;font-family:var(--font-sans)}
.tf .two{display:grid;gap:.7rem}
@media (min-width:480px){.tf .two{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
.rail .tf .two{grid-template-columns:1fr}
.fld label{display:block;font:500 .8rem/1.3 var(--font-sans);color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:.25rem}
.fld input,.fld select,.fld textarea{width:100%;min-height:46px;padding:.6rem .75rem;border:1px solid var(--rule);border-bottom:1.5px solid var(--ink-2);border-radius:0;background:var(--paper);font:400 1rem/1.4 var(--font-sans);color:var(--ink);transition:border-color .15s,background-color .15s}
.fld textarea{min-height:84px;resize:vertical}
.fld input:hover,.fld select:hover,.fld textarea:hover{background:var(--paper-2)}
.fld input:focus,.fld select:focus,.fld textarea:focus{outline:none;border-color:var(--juniper);border-bottom-color:var(--juniper);background:#fff}
.fld [aria-invalid=true]{border-color:#9B2C2C}
.fld :disabled{opacity:.55}
.hp{position:absolute!important;left:-10000px!important;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden}
.tf .btn-outline{width:100%}
.fine{font:400 .8rem/1.45 var(--font-sans);color:var(--slate);margin:0}

/* Home pieces */
.sec{padding:var(--sec) 0}
.sec-top{border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.intro{max-width:var(--measure)}
.dest{display:grid;gap:0;grid-template-columns:1fr;border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}
@media (min-width:860px){.dest{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}.dest>*+*{border-left:1px solid var(--rule)}}
.dest>a{display:block;padding:1.4rem 0;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
@media (min-width:860px){.dest>a{padding:1.4rem 1.4rem;border-bottom:0}.dest>a:first-child{padding-left:0}.dest>a:last-child{padding-right:0}}
.dest img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;background:var(--paper-2);margin-bottom:.9rem}
.dest .n{font:500 .78rem/1 var(--font-sans);letter-spacing:.12em;color:var(--slate)}
.dest h3{font-size:1.5rem;margin:.4rem 0}
.dest p{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:1.02rem;margin:0 0 .6rem}
.dest .more{font:500 .92rem/1 var(--font-sans);color:var(--juniper);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}
.dest>a:hover h3{color:var(--juniper)}
.two-col{display:grid;gap:2rem}
@media (min-width:900px){.two-col{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:4rem}}
.two-col>*{min-width:0}
.numbered{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;counter-reset:n}
.numbered li{counter-increment:n;display:grid;grid-template-columns:2.4rem 1fr;gap:.2rem;padding:.9rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);margin:0}
.numbered li::before{content:counter(n,decimal-leading-zero);font:500 .85rem/1.9 var(--font-sans);color:var(--slate)}

/* Bottom bar (phones) */
.bar{position:fixed;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;z-index:50;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;background:var(--ink);padding-bottom:env(safe-area-inset-bottom)}
.bar a{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;min-height:var(--bar);padding:.3rem .5rem;color:var(--paper);text-decoration:none;font:500 .92rem/1.2 var(--font-sans);text-align:center}
.bar a+a{border-left:1px solid rgba(247,245,239,.25)}
.bar a:hover{background:var(--juniper)}
@media (min-width:1000px){.bar{display:none}}

/* Footer */
.foot{border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding:2.6rem 0 2rem;font:400 .92rem/1.6 var(--font-sans);color:var(--ink-2)}
.foot-cols{display:grid;gap:1.8rem}
@media (min-width:760px){.foot-cols{grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr 1fr}}
.foot h3{font:500 .78rem/1.3 var(--font-sans);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);margin-bottom:.6rem}
.foot ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.foot li{margin:0}
.foot li a{display:inline-flex;min-height:34px;align-items:center;color:var(--ink)}
.disclaimer{margin-top:2rem;padding-top:1rem;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);font-size:.86rem;color:var(--ink-2);max-width:80ch}
.foot-end{margin-top:1rem;font-size:.8rem;color:var(--slate)}
.foot-end a{color:inherit}

/* FAQ */
.faq{border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.faq summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;align-items:baseline;min-height:50px;padding:.9rem 0;font:600 1.12rem/1.4 var(--font-serif);color:var(--ink)}
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq summary:hover{color:var(--juniper)}
.faq summary::after{content:"+";font:400 1.4rem/1 var(--font-sans);color:var(--juniper);flex:none}
.faq details[open] summary::after{content:"–"}
.faq .a{padding:0 0 1rem}
.faq .a p:last-child{margin:0}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*,*::before,*::after{animation:none!important;transition:none!important;scroll-behavior:auto!important}}

/* brand logo */
.site-logo{display:block;width:200px;max-width:52vw;min-width:160px;height:auto}
.foot .site-logo,.site-footer .site-logo,.ftr .site-logo{width:220px}
.wm-icon{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.6rem}.wm-icon img{width:40px;height:40px;flex:none}